I just got home after an interesting few months away in Western Australia and Indonesia. I found out in June that I’d made it into Taylor Steele’s latest surf movie. It was all thanks to my friend Damon Meade who put up a clip of me on the Innersection.tv website and a huge showing of support from New Zealand surfing community.
Above: Back home NZ, photo: ramboestrada
Before I found out the good news I’d been working in Perth as a laborer. I hadn’t really thought much about doing a lot of surfing, so I was pretty happy when I found out that I was gonna quit my job and travel round the place getting filmed for the movie. At first when learned that I’d made it into the film I was obviously really stoked, but after thinking about it for a while, I realized that it was kind of a big deal and I felt a lot of pressure to make something really amazing, not so much pressure from other people, but pressure that I’d put on myself. It did my head in a bit and I started to over-think it all, then I realized that all I was really doing was going surfing, surfing’s fun, so why not just go surfing and have fun? There’s no pressure in that. So that’s what I’m doing, going surfing and having fun.
Above: from labouring in Perth to this
I spent 6 weeks in Indo in an attempt at getting some quality clips under my belt, I got a few keepers at Lakey Peak but that was about it, things didn’t really work out for me and I was getting a little frustrated. Although it’s always fun times hanging in Indo, I was actually quite happy leaving to return to the mellow pace of West Oz. I had plans of travelling up and down the coast surfing all these awesome spots in WA. But in my first week back in Australia I was ended up getting Dengue Fever, no doubt from the mosquito infested pit of a place I was staying at in Bali. This made the motivation to surf non-existent, so I figured I’d get myself home and start fresh, which is pretty much where I’m at now.
Above: Lakey Fish
I thought about filming overseas somewhere, but where? New Zealand’s as good a place as any. It’s cold here mid winter, but the waves here are world class, it’s just a matter of having a good wetsuit and some time to travel. I’m pretty sure I have both. Hopefully in these next couple of months I can find some decent waves in this great country of ours, I’m sure I will, it’s gonna be a lot of fun.
Above: Info MJ
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