Given that this is my first blog, it seems appropriate to tackle the biggest issue in female surfing – that is, the lack of it. When you ask a girl who is somewhat interested in surfing why she doesn’t, you can generally bet that the excuse will fall in one of the following categories…to be honest, the excuses suck – I am a girl that surfs (or at least tries to) and each excuse can be refuted…
Above: Auckland surfer & Uni student Mischa Davis longboarding at Port Waikato - photo: COL/SURF2SURF.com
Excuse 1: It is all men and they’ll laugh at me…
Why it doesn’t hold up: Well, at the moment, the first part of this is true (thus why we are writing this article). The large majority of surfers tend to be men. However, the laughing at you part could not be further from the truth. Most of the guys in the water are there for a good time, they have better things to do than laugh at you. Generally, catching a wave is at the top of their priority list. Based on what I’ve been told by my partner and other guy mates that surf, they’re impressed when they see a chick paddle out the back – irrespective of her ability to catch a wave. Of course, just because you are girl you don’t get a special set of rules. Chivalry does not apply in the water: the person with priority takes the wave, aim not to get in anyone’s way when you paddle out and don’t snake waves. These rules that have more or less become set in stone in the surfing world; are applicable no matter what gender you are. Although, you may tend to find that the boys will be a bit nicer than you’d expect, and let you take a wave or two that wasn’t necessarily ‘yours’.
Excuse 2: It’s too cold – I don’t want to go outside, let alone in the water…and how am I supposed to know when the surf is good?
Why it doesn’t hold up: Again, this is true to a certain extent – the water is cold now that we are in the throes of winter. However, wetsuit technology today overcomes this no problem. Often it can be warmer in the water than out. From fireskin lining to seamless designs to blind stitching and ergonomic paneling; you could say that the surfing industry fairly well has it covered! In addition to the essential 4:3 wetsuit, by August you’ll need booties and potentially a hood. These are easily accessible from any decent surf store; try Ultimate Surf in Albany. As for knowing when the surf is good, there are several resources available on the internet for you to tap into. For an all round informative source, you are browsing the right site. It gives daily surf reports; surf forecasts and lets you know about the latest happening in the surfing world. If you are having trouble reading the surf reports or are still unsure of where to go, the ‘New Zealand Surfing Guide’ mini-book is the best investment you could possibly make.
Excuse 3: I don’t have the time or the money…
Why it doesn’t hold up: What did we learn from legally blonde now ladies? Exercise gives you endorphins, endorphins make you happy and happy people, well, let’s just say they gain more domestic bliss than others. You set time aside to work, time aside for the family, time aside to keep the house tidy, now set some time aside for you. It’s comparatively cheap as opposed to other winter sports such as snowboarding. All you need is a board, your wettie and ride to get to the beach. No matter whereabouts in New Zealand you are, you can generally get to a beach with waves within an hour. And no matter where you end up, the scenery will undoubtedly be better than a grey gym wall. Problem solved.
Excuse 4: I can’t get my hands on a board…
Why it doesn’t hold up: Possibly the worst excuse there is…there are numerous outlets in New Zealand from which you can hire or purchase a board. I know a lot of you will have boyfriends or husbands with a shortboard kicking around in the garage. However, if you are just starting out, this isn’t the way to go. The general premise of surfing is that the bigger the surface area under your feet, the easier it is to stand up on. A longer board gives greater balance and stability – which are paramount when you are learning to surf. A mini-mal (7”6) is a good starting point. They are long enough to give you a decent amount of stability and not too long that they are uncontrollable. Otherwise a 9”1 longboard can be super fun. Although a lot of you may perceive longboarding as the “less cool” version of surfing, it is the easiest way to be able to stand up. And to be honest, if you’re standing up, you’re surfing and you’re having fun.
A fun West Coast lineup - photo: COL/SURF2SURF.com
Excuse 5: I don’t have anyone to go surfing with…
Why it doesn’t hold up: Although many people aren’t aware of them, there are in fact many ‘surfing clubs’ in New Zealand. From the Orewa Longboard Club to Mangawhai Boardriders to New Brighton Boardriders and Dunedin Boardriders; there is a nice selection depending on what you are looking for. They generally have websites, so jump on Google and look them up. In the OLBC, girls join in their first year for free – so there’s nothing holding you back. Clubs tend to run contests once a month. Now don’t freak out, these aren’t compulsory at all. There will also be a Club night, where you can head down and have a chat with other people who are into surfing. Often there will someone planning a surf trip and more often than not there will be a spare seat in the car. The perfect way to meet some like-minded people who are keen to jump in the water.
2009
12:28 pm
Nice work Hannah! alot of my girl mates are always the first to say they want to learn but they also seem to be the first to find an excuse as to why they can't when the time comes to hit the coast. I've sent this article to all of them! Chur.
- Posted by Gavin Bisman
2009
12:53 pm
true-i was lucky to fall in love with a guy who happened to be a long time surfer-the rest is history- he used to go out surfing all the time and i used to get really annoyed-but then i thought'what the hell is all the fuss about?'and im the type of person who will try anything new-i learnt on a really crap short board that i couldnt even stand on - and a wetsuit full of holes ,and he used to take me out on the huge onshore days-i fell in love with it-that was 7 years ago-and i still find it a huge challenge im really self conscious eh-but when i think about it -its really about living in the moment when youre on a wave you dont think about anything else its only when you come off you think-'im not as good as id like to be but that felt really cool'and you want moresurfing is a never ending learning process there are many rewards for being persistant!
- Posted by girl surfer
2009
01:14 pm
Very inspirational onya Hannah.
- Posted by Scotty
2009
01:40 pm
Well done! Glad to see a girl surfer out their, with brains promoting the sport,keep it up.
- Posted by Shell
2009
05:26 pm
im single ladies.....
- Posted by keg
2009
05:54 pm
also a former number two at the maori nationals..
- Posted by dan procter
2009
09:01 pm
Do you surf? Are you a surfer? No no no...Im just the garbage man.
- Posted by Bear
2009
08:43 am
MICHA!!!!!!MICHA!!!!
- Posted by dan procter
2009
10:11 am
At last! Thank goodness! A female with a passion for surfing, for communicating, for reaching female surfers at grass roots level and inspiring experienced surfers to encourage new girl surfers.I am in my 46th year of surfing and am getting very blasted slow so good to know that the new brigade are firing and there and talking to each other!Lots of love.Good on ya.Jonnie Mead at the Mount (past women's co ordnator for surfing NZ)
- Posted by Jonnie Mead
2009
12:24 pm
the world needs garbage men bear.... they play a very important part in society-i.e the enviroment p.s go the chickees!
- Posted by wah-lah
2009
05:12 pm
MICHA!!!!! MICHA!!!!!! MICIA!!!!!
- Posted by dylan barnfield
2009
07:27 pm
the world needs garbage men bear.... they play a very important part in society-i.e the enviroment p.s go the chickees!
- Posted by Replica Christian Louboutin
2009
09:46 pm
Thanks for the positive feedback everyone! Really appreciate it!
- Posted by Hannah Howard
2009
10:08 pm
Dear Hannah,Your writing is great, keep it up, thanks for the nice picture of mischa, girls get out there!Mischa's mum
- Posted by Monique
2009
09:46 am
keg is single????
- Posted by jay reeve
2009
09:47 am
hannah montana your an inspiration to every female surfer on the planet go girl...
- Posted by duncan
2009
08:26 pm
Absolutely true. I'm learning to surf, I started right in the middle of winter and the weather never put me off. What cold huh? wetsuit does the magic. Time goes by while surfing and all your problems seem to disappear. I've being through a break up and surfing has giving me the strength to move on and enjoy every single day of my life. So Hannah baby keep up the blog cuz it's awesome and to all the girls out there, get your butt down to the beach and get the party started. :o)
- Posted by ladudu
2009
09:07 am
yea theres a few dreamers out there though...
- Posted by huh
2009
01:54 pm
whos Jay Reeve????
- Posted by keg
2009
02:44 pm
Keg email me on hannah-howard@hotmail.com! Need your help with the North Island Longboarding Champs pleeease!
- Posted by Hannah
2009
01:35 pm
It possitively surpasses every living emotion I've ever had!
- Posted by Gidget
2009
06:18 pm
You are a very special person. Where have you surfed and what is your Motto for surfing?
- Posted by Maria
2009
01:33 pm
I am only just learning to surf now... and I'm 39! No one encouraged me to do this as a girl, but I finally got up the courage and it's awesome! I saw a lot of women in the water, and some very good ones too. I will never forget the feeling of standing up and surfing for the first time, breathtaking.
- Posted by NorCal Girl
2010
09:52 am
Hi Hannah, it's great to read your encouraging and inspiring blog to girls out there who surf or who want to get into surfing! :) However, there is one very valid point you have forgotten to include in the list of excuses above, which to me, is the ONE thing which I have a problem with surfing (and even getting into it to begin with). In fact - none of the above factors bother me or have held me back (apart from feeling intimidated and put off by guys and crowds!) This very valid point and reason is FEAR! You haven't mentioned how hard and scary surfing actually is! I started surfing 3 years ago now and it is by far the hardest sport I have tried, and it is scary! Surfing takes a LOT of confidence, guts and determination! When you are paddling for a wave, and at the top of that wave looking down the face at what seems like big, steep drop into nowhere, not knowing whether you're going to make it, wondering whether you're going to nosedive over the falls....it is the most scary feeling! It's not scary in small, 1-2 foot waves though, I am fine and fairly confident to go for it in this size and not hold back. But - once it's 3-4 foot or bigger, I have a real FEAR of 'going for it' and taking the drop.... It's really frustrating and I wish I had the guts to just go for it in bigger waves and not be so chicken! My underlying fear really comes from the fear of not making the take-off, getting slammed/going over the falls - and being held under the water and not being able to breathe.... This is my biggest fear and this is what is holding me back with my surfing most of all (apart from how technically difficult it is anyway!) I'm okay in smaller waves of 1-3 foot and don't feel so nervous and can mostly 'go for it' and catch waves most of the time, but in anything 4 foot plus, I just freak out!! The biggest I've been out in is up to 5 foot and I was way to scared to even try and take off on any waves for the fear of getting slammed!! These waves are to me are big walls of fear...I just paddle around out the back feeling like an idiot and frustrated at myself and my fear... Surfing is an awesome sport and I have so much admiration for anyone who can surf and ride green waves (especially bigger, 4-6 foot !) confidently. I'm still at the frustrating learning curve with the green waves (aside from my fear!) but the occasional times I do get on a green wave and glide along the face, it's SUCH a buzz! Those exciting, fun moments are what keep me persevering and going out there again and again! Plus the fact that it's an awesome workout!I would be interested to know if there are other girls out there who have the same fear of the waves that I do? It would be comforting to hear about other people who have the same fear issues I do with surfing, and who are struggling to learn and get to the next level with the green waves....I really felt the urge and need to include something about this part of surfing, that no magazines, other surfers etc ever seem to mention?? Happy surfing everyone and keep up the great blog!
- Posted by Shannon
2010
02:29 pm
Hi all, I've been surfing for about a year and a half and what I've found with it is that A) it's the only sport which I have found that I WANT to stick with, beautiful, meditative, always learning something new B)it's constantly challenging me mentally
- Posted by surfcrazy
2010
04:04 pm
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- Posted by lkkj1452
2010
12:00 pm
Hello shannon, you are not alone in battling with a fear of the waves. Im an aquaholic, I love the sea and watersports and i love nothing more than blasting about on a windsurfer, in big swell in a force 6. However when I go surfing in anything more than a nice 'gentle' 3 foot swell I get nowhere because Im so afraid of the waves! Perhaps its the nature of the waves where I surf. On tv they always seem more gentle somehow (except the big surf of course). I think perhaps you've got to be determined to take a heavy beating until eventually you can pop up and ride with control and hence confidence. Being young probably helps - the older you get the more fear you have. Most of the windsurfing guys I know dont surf - its a different type of adrenaline sport and takes a different type of mindset. Thing is you wont get many guys saying they find it scary - they just say they're not fussed about surfing! Anyhow I think more and more that Im just going to stick with the 3 footers and a long board (or SUP).
- Posted by windysurfer
Hannah Howard is an avid surfer, mainly involved in the Longboarding community. She is the Women's Coordinator of the Orewa Longboard Club and writes for various media outlets, including 09 magazine. She is super stoked on travelling to Costa Rica with the NZ team covering the 2009 ISA World Surfing Games.
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