It’s hard to think of anything other than your own start in surfing when you pick up an Alaia with its deceptively simple shape and edges. Its simplicity strips surfing back to the beginning in both senses, historically the simple boards are documented in most Polynesian cultures and wave riding at its most base experience - simply you and a length of wood.
Above: Daryn - Photocpl.co.nz
My initiation into surfing was nothing extraordinary and probably just the same as every surf stoked kiwi gremmie; summer holidays at a warm east coast beach that, not often enough, could produce a rideable wave. I would try any and everything I could, just to get that feeling of being picked up and hurtled shoreward- the faster the better.
Of course the trusty blue’n’white Skellerup foamy became the fall back vehicle, but while waiting for the accursed foamy induced nipple rash to heal I would try out hard plastic flutter boards, the family canvas canoe [broach, flip, fill with water, wash into beach, waste precious time bailing- repeat.] and even a round plywood skim-board. The thing with the skim-board was once it was up and planing it took off crazily- it was easily the fastest craft, but fuck it hurt; if it pearled you’d be pushed over the front, flicking the back edge of 9 ply up into your hips.
When I was 11 Dad gave me my first fibreglass board for Chrissy. It ruined Dad’s hopes of my stellar tennis career and Mum’s dreams of me becoming a surgeon… They rued the day that Chrissy pressie was happened upon. The skim board and its hippers started to collect dust next to the Skellerup in the Bach’s sleep-out, I’d moved on to balancing precariously on my Bob Davie with its candle waxed deck and getting skeg gashes to my noggin.
A mere 30 years into the future and I’m hanging out with Daryn at his home tucked behind the dunes at the Mount, he’s amping on his new creation, his first venture into Alaia shaping. Inspired by Tom Wegener [check out www.tomwegenersurfboards.com] Daryn got a wooden laminate blank from Roy Stewart and started shaping. The experiment has seen the bottom become the deck and the rounded rails re-squared. Daryn’s stoke for the Alaia is infectious, and he shares it readily to anyone that wants a blat.
Daryn enthuses about the ride the round nosed, finless plank gives; the sheer speed across the face and the barrels it has already given him, he reckons it’s the fastest board he’s ever ridden and now it’s mine to try out [and share] for a month while Daryn’s in China. I’m amping for a small perfect day.
Want to see more about Alaia’s? Check out the DVD The Present [which is conveniently available at thesurfshop.co.nz ] or just Google Alaia surfboards, there’s a raft of information about the boards and Tom Wegener, whom- not incidentally, was named by Surfing Magazine as 2008’s shaper of the year for his development of Alaia shapes.
Blog out CPL
Related Links:
CPL's new book ' Beached As'
PhotoCPL the Book
2010
10:38 am
Imagine getting hit in the head by one of these!
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2010
12:39 pm
ow! it would, but you'd be blown away by how light it is, I don't think it's a 'OMG this is the ultimate in surfing experiences' thing...I'm figuring it's a pretty damn good way of having fun in marginal surf.... eastcoast mish 2mods...yeessss
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2010
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ogs alaia @ westend 2moro,
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2010
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Be great to see Daryn surf the Sandy Bay comp on the Alaia and pull some supa trad moves to blow away the rest !!! style alone would win it
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Craig 'CPL' Levers is a talented photographer / journo based in Piha on the West Coast. He has given 15 years to surfing in this country while at the editorial helm of NZ Surfing Magazine. CPL is now pursuing his own exciting book and other print projects, be sure to check out his website and new book coming out soon here:www.photocpl.co.nz
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